The blacker the berry……………..

Posts Tagged ‘ingredients

Ethyl macadamiate is a plant-derived (from macademia oil) alternative to synthetic silicones. It is especially non-greasy and non-sticky with excellent spreadability. It helps make the skin feel soft and healthy.

Ethyl Macadamiate is a clear, colorless liquid at room temperature, with a typical fatty ester odor. Ethyl Macadamiate’s melting (congealing) point is 10°C. and its specific gravity is 0.88. Ethyl Macadamiate spreads very aggressively, and has a light, nongreasy dry skinfeel similar to that of some silicone derivatives, however, Ethyl Macadamiate is non-volatile.

Ethyl Macadamiate is used in cosmetics, especially in skincare, haircare and suncare formulation. The dry skinfeel and high spread make Ethyl Macadamiate well suited for increasing sunscreen coverage. Ethyl Macadamiate is a promising alternative to cyclomethicone and dimethicone as a skinfeel modifier where a botanical, nonvolatile and/or lipid-soluble substance is preferred

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Description: Naturally derived, cationic self-emulsifying wax & quaternary conditioner consisting of cetearyl alcohol & behentrimonium methosulfate (derived from rapeseed oil of the natural plant Colza). Off-white pastilles, faint odor. Insoluble, but dispersible in water & oil. pH Value: 5 – 7 (2% solution). CAS# 67762-27-0 / 8005-44-5, 81646-13-1.


INCI Name: Behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol.

Properties: Skin care products: gives superior cationic emulsions with soft powdery feel, thickening & stabilizing effects, able to emulsify silicone up to 50%. Hair care products: excellent conditioning & detangling effects, superior wet combing, very gentle for leave-on products.

Use: Warm to melt before use, typical concentration 1-10%.

Applications: Moisturizing creams & lotions, silicone emulsions, antiperspirants & deodorants, various hair care products (conditioners, detanglers, hair dyes, hair relaxers, leave-on treatments, ethnic hair care products).


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check out for some conditioners that contain this product, BMS is cousin to BC ( Behentrimonium cholride)

I got this one from

Description: Cationic quaternary ammonium compound (docosyltrimethylammonium chlorid) made from colza oil (canolla oil) with potent conditiong effect. White to off-white flakes, alcohol-like odor. Soluble in hot water or oil (85oC / 185F), pH: 6 – 8 (2% solution). Activity: 79-81% active substances. CAS# 17301-53-0.

INCI Name: Behentrimonium choride, ethyl alcohol.

Properties: Potent conditioner with antistatic & detangling properties, able to restore & rebuild damaged hair (due to colza oil it does not coat but penetrates & substantiates the hair shaft), softening effect, antimicrobial properties.

Use: Use level 0.5 – 3 %, add pellets to warm water or oil (85oC) to melt, avoid overheating.

Applications: Hair conditioners, hair shampoos, hair rinses. If you google this product you can see the different companies that use this in there conditioners.

 If you purchase this product to use in your own mixes Please excersie caution when using this product as improper use can be detrimental to your health.

 info from


Soy Protein is a cosmetic grade, enzymatically hydrolyzed soy protein. Low odor and light color characterize this superior soy hydrolyzate. This high quality vegetable sourced protein provides moisture retentive, protective, and sealing films. It adds shine, body, and manageability to hair care products.

Soy Protein increases the ability of the hair and skin to bind moisture and specifically improves the tensile strength
of hair. It mitigates damage due to bleaching, perming, and hot combing. Soy Protein is substantive to hair and
skin. It helps to minimize roughness and chapping of skin caused by dry climates


::What are the benefits of Hydrolyzed Soy Protein?::

HAIR CARE– Enhances hair manageability, improves the body and texture of hair, improves feel and dry comb properties, contains cystine for hair strenthening and nourishment.

SKIN CARE– Soy is an awesome source of Isoflavones. The role of isoflavones is widely appreciated and is currently the subject of intense research. Isoflavones appear to protect the skin against hormone-related aging, such as in menopause. And isoflavones can have estrogenic activity, for instance if during menopause the body’s natural level of estrogen drops, isoflavones can compensate by binding to the same receptor sites. As we age, our hormone levels drop and our skin, the biggest organ, shows the results. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein helps bring back a youthful radiance in skin care



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Sound scary doesn’t it. No worries its not. 🙂

Superior Moisturization: Hyaluronic Acid is known as the most effective moisturizer ever discovered. A 1% aqueous solution is incredibly effective, even at 0.1-1%. Hyaluronic Acid has recently been used to create Hylaform Gel, an FDA Approved injectable material that aestheticians and plastic surgeons predict will replace collagen injections because the risk of reaction is lower (most collagen being of bovine origin) and Hylaform Gel is more effective, and the results last longer than those of collagen injections.

Hyaluronic Acid 1% is an aqueous solution. During manufacture, special attention is paid above all to maintaining its high relative molecular mass and a high degree of purity. Hyaluronic acid is made up of approx. 1,000 to 10,000 disaccharide units in the form of unbranched, long chains. Each disaccharide unit consist of one molecule each of glucuronic acid and N- HYALURONIC ACID the most effective moisturizer ever discovered acetylglucosamine. The high viscosity of Hyaluronic Acid derives from the very pronounced hydrophilic characteristics of Hyaluronic acid.

In water, low concentrations suffice to yield a highly viscous solution with outstanding spreading and lubricating properties. In connective tissue, Hyaluronic acid fills the space between collagenous and elastic fibers and the cells. It is particularly responsible for the visco-elastic characteristics of tissue, especially those of the skin.

Effect: In view of its high relative molecular mass the Hyaluronic acid is not absorbed following application to the skin. Instead, it forms a thin, light permeable, invisible, visco-elastic surface film. This fixes the moisture on the surface of the skin. The Hyaluronic acid film helps to preserve the principal characteristics of young, healthy skin, such as smoothness, elasticity and tone. The Hyaluronic acid film supports the skin’s natural protective mechanism. Since it is an excellent water reservoir and an ideal lubricant, Hyaluronic acid, when incorporated into cosmetics, leads to a perceptible and visible improvement in skin condition.

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Lactate, a 60% concentration in water, is the sodium salt of natural L(+)-Lactic Acid, produced through the fermentation of sugar, an AHA that occurs everywhere in nature and is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) constituent of skin. Sodium Lactate is a superior moisturizer, increasing the moisture content of skin by up to 90%. When compared to other commonly used moisturizers, it’s water holding capacity is second only to Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid),

Sodium Lactate is an edible material that has been used for decades in the meat-packing industry because it effectively forces cells to hold water.

It is a mild, multifunctional ingredient that offers the following benefits in formulations:

  • Reduces irritation potentail and increases efficacy of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids
  • Makes oils and butters less greasy and more moisturizing because it lengthens the carbon chain of oils
  • Significantly increases and accelerates the action (particularly the skin lightening action) of Vitamin C and its derivatives
  • Antimicrobial action helps facilitate product preservation
  • In production of bar soaps, use of Sodium Lactate will result in bigger yield, faster cure times, and improved product aesthetics/performance
  • Having a very slick, emollient, almost oily feel, Sodium Lactate can be used to reduce tack and improve skin feel of aqueous systems in which oils or esters could not be used
  • Because of it’s water binding capacity and emollient feel, makes a fabulous component of salon “cutting lotions” or detanglers
  • Dramatically improved moisture content of skin even when utilized in rinse-off products.

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) has been shown to actually penetrate the hair to help strengthen and revive it. Use it in small quantities in shampoos and conditioners.

Research has shown that Panthenol penetrates the hair shaft and root, and can thicken the hair by up to 10%. It also increases the tensile strength of hair, giving it resistance to breakage. Panthenol makes a wonderful addition to hair conditioners, giving elasticity and luster to hair. Used in skin care and lotions, this clear liquid provides deep penetrating moisture that soothes irritated skin. . Recommended usage 0.5 – 2.0%.

Use rate
Rinse-off hair conditioner
1% to 5%
Leave-in hair conditioner
.1% to .5%
Hair tonic / serum
.3% to 1.0%


April 2020