The blacker the berry……………..

Posts Tagged ‘ingredients

Ethyl macadamiate is a plant-derived (from macademia oil) alternative to synthetic silicones. It is especially non-greasy and non-sticky with excellent spreadability. It helps make the skin feel soft and healthy.

Ethyl Macadamiate is a clear, colorless liquid at room temperature, with a typical fatty ester odor. Ethyl Macadamiate’s melting (congealing) point is 10°C. and its specific gravity is 0.88. Ethyl Macadamiate spreads very aggressively, and has a light, nongreasy dry skinfeel similar to that of some silicone derivatives, however, Ethyl Macadamiate is non-volatile.

Ethyl Macadamiate is used in cosmetics, especially in skincare, haircare and suncare formulation. The dry skinfeel and high spread make Ethyl Macadamiate well suited for increasing sunscreen coverage. Ethyl Macadamiate is a promising alternative to cyclomethicone and dimethicone as a skinfeel modifier where a botanical, nonvolatile and/or lipid-soluble substance is preferred

sources: and picture from

Description: Naturally derived, cationic self-emulsifying wax & quaternary conditioner consisting of cetearyl alcohol & behentrimonium methosulfate (derived from rapeseed oil of the natural plant Colza). Off-white pastilles, faint odor. Insoluble, but dispersible in water & oil. pH Value: 5 – 7 (2% solution). CAS# 67762-27-0 / 8005-44-5, 81646-13-1.


INCI Name: Behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol.

Properties: Skin care products: gives superior cationic emulsions with soft powdery feel, thickening & stabilizing effects, able to emulsify silicone up to 50%. Hair care products: excellent conditioning & detangling effects, superior wet combing, very gentle for leave-on products.

Use: Warm to melt before use, typical concentration 1-10%.

Applications: Moisturizing creams & lotions, silicone emulsions, antiperspirants & deodorants, various hair care products (conditioners, detanglers, hair dyes, hair relaxers, leave-on treatments, ethnic hair care products).


info taken from

check out for some conditioners that contain this product, BMS is cousin to BC ( Behentrimonium cholride)

I got this one from

Description: Cationic quaternary ammonium compound (docosyltrimethylammonium chlorid) made from colza oil (canolla oil) with potent conditiong effect. White to off-white flakes, alcohol-like odor. Soluble in hot water or oil (85oC / 185F), pH: 6 – 8 (2% solution). Activity: 79-81% active substances. CAS# 17301-53-0.

INCI Name: Behentrimonium choride, ethyl alcohol.

Properties: Potent conditioner with antistatic & detangling properties, able to restore & rebuild damaged hair (due to colza oil it does not coat but penetrates & substantiates the hair shaft), softening effect, antimicrobial properties.

Use: Use level 0.5 – 3 %, add pellets to warm water or oil (85oC) to melt, avoid overheating.

Applications: Hair conditioners, hair shampoos, hair rinses. If you google this product you can see the different companies that use this in there conditioners.

 If you purchase this product to use in your own mixes Please excersie caution when using this product as improper use can be detrimental to your health.

 info from


Soy Protein is a cosmetic grade, enzymatically hydrolyzed soy protein. Low odor and light color characterize this superior soy hydrolyzate. This high quality vegetable sourced protein provides moisture retentive, protective, and sealing films. It adds shine, body, and manageability to hair care products.

Soy Protein increases the ability of the hair and skin to bind moisture and specifically improves the tensile strength
of hair. It mitigates damage due to bleaching, perming, and hot combing. Soy Protein is substantive to hair and
skin. It helps to minimize roughness and chapping of skin caused by dry climates


::What are the benefits of Hydrolyzed Soy Protein?::

HAIR CARE– Enhances hair manageability, improves the body and texture of hair, improves feel and dry comb properties, contains cystine for hair strenthening and nourishment.

SKIN CARE– Soy is an awesome source of Isoflavones. The role of isoflavones is widely appreciated and is currently the subject of intense research. Isoflavones appear to protect the skin against hormone-related aging, such as in menopause. And isoflavones can have estrogenic activity, for instance if during menopause the body’s natural level of estrogen drops, isoflavones can compensate by binding to the same receptor sites. As we age, our hormone levels drop and our skin, the biggest organ, shows the results. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein helps bring back a youthful radiance in skin care



Info from

Sound scary doesn’t it. No worries its not. 🙂

Superior Moisturization: Hyaluronic Acid is known as the most effective moisturizer ever discovered. A 1% aqueous solution is incredibly effective, even at 0.1-1%. Hyaluronic Acid has recently been used to create Hylaform Gel, an FDA Approved injectable material that aestheticians and plastic surgeons predict will replace collagen injections because the risk of reaction is lower (most collagen being of bovine origin) and Hylaform Gel is more effective, and the results last longer than those of collagen injections.

Hyaluronic Acid 1% is an aqueous solution. During manufacture, special attention is paid above all to maintaining its high relative molecular mass and a high degree of purity. Hyaluronic acid is made up of approx. 1,000 to 10,000 disaccharide units in the form of unbranched, long chains. Each disaccharide unit consist of one molecule each of glucuronic acid and N- HYALURONIC ACID the most effective moisturizer ever discovered acetylglucosamine. The high viscosity of Hyaluronic Acid derives from the very pronounced hydrophilic characteristics of Hyaluronic acid.

In water, low concentrations suffice to yield a highly viscous solution with outstanding spreading and lubricating properties. In connective tissue, Hyaluronic acid fills the space between collagenous and elastic fibers and the cells. It is particularly responsible for the visco-elastic characteristics of tissue, especially those of the skin.

Effect: In view of its high relative molecular mass the Hyaluronic acid is not absorbed following application to the skin. Instead, it forms a thin, light permeable, invisible, visco-elastic surface film. This fixes the moisture on the surface of the skin. The Hyaluronic acid film helps to preserve the principal characteristics of young, healthy skin, such as smoothness, elasticity and tone. The Hyaluronic acid film supports the skin’s natural protective mechanism. Since it is an excellent water reservoir and an ideal lubricant, Hyaluronic acid, when incorporated into cosmetics, leads to a perceptible and visible improvement in skin condition.

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Lactate, a 60% concentration in water, is the sodium salt of natural L(+)-Lactic Acid, produced through the fermentation of sugar, an AHA that occurs everywhere in nature and is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) constituent of skin. Sodium Lactate is a superior moisturizer, increasing the moisture content of skin by up to 90%. When compared to other commonly used moisturizers, it’s water holding capacity is second only to Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid),

Sodium Lactate is an edible material that has been used for decades in the meat-packing industry because it effectively forces cells to hold water.

It is a mild, multifunctional ingredient that offers the following benefits in formulations:

  • Reduces irritation potentail and increases efficacy of Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids
  • Makes oils and butters less greasy and more moisturizing because it lengthens the carbon chain of oils
  • Significantly increases and accelerates the action (particularly the skin lightening action) of Vitamin C and its derivatives
  • Antimicrobial action helps facilitate product preservation
  • In production of bar soaps, use of Sodium Lactate will result in bigger yield, faster cure times, and improved product aesthetics/performance
  • Having a very slick, emollient, almost oily feel, Sodium Lactate can be used to reduce tack and improve skin feel of aqueous systems in which oils or esters could not be used
  • Because of it’s water binding capacity and emollient feel, makes a fabulous component of salon “cutting lotions” or detanglers
  • Dramatically improved moisture content of skin even when utilized in rinse-off products.

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) has been shown to actually penetrate the hair to help strengthen and revive it. Use it in small quantities in shampoos and conditioners.

Research has shown that Panthenol penetrates the hair shaft and root, and can thicken the hair by up to 10%. It also increases the tensile strength of hair, giving it resistance to breakage. Panthenol makes a wonderful addition to hair conditioners, giving elasticity and luster to hair. Used in skin care and lotions, this clear liquid provides deep penetrating moisture that soothes irritated skin. . Recommended usage 0.5 – 2.0%.

Use rate
Rinse-off hair conditioner
1% to 5%
Leave-in hair conditioner
.1% to .5%
Hair tonic / serum
.3% to 1.0%

 Guar conditioner

A self-hydrating quaternized guar that offers efficient thickening, and cationic conditioning without buildup.Derived from a natural gum, this wonderfully conditioning ingredient is a MUST HAVE for shampoos and conditioners aimed at producing soft, shiny and silky hair. It also improves both wet and dry combability of hair. This light yellow powder is dispersable in hot or cold water. A little goes a very long way, with one ounce being enough for 25-30 eight ounce bottles of conditioner. Recommended usage is 0.2 – 1.0% INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

Guar gum and its derivatives offer several advantages for personal care formulators:

· It is natural and derived from a renewable source;
· It conditions without causing polymer buildup in hair care products; · It is biodegradable and nontoxic;
· It is economical compared to other cellulosic products, and
· It is the only one of the three main polysaccharides (the others are starch and cellulose) that hydrate in water without chemical or physical modification. Quaternized Polymers are used in shampoos and conditioners to facilitate combability.

They are used in skin care to improve skin feel, rubout, moisture content, and product aesthetics. The positively charged (cationic) molecule bonds with the negatively charged (anionic) skin and hair to form a polymeric film. They also make hair and skin alike feel softer and smoother to the touch. It is also known to increase the substantivity of silicone fluids onto hair and skin fibers.

This is another article from

Have you ever wandered about all those multi-sylable, scientfic names in the ingredient list. What they are, how you say it, what its supposed to do. Well this article answers some of that.

check it out.

With names five syllable long and twenty-five or more letters in length, it’s no wonder we’re unaware of what the funny sounding chemicals in our hair products are supposed to do!
To help you on your way toward deciphering the beauty word jumble, here are some of the most commonly used substances for in many of your hair and body care products. While this list is not nearly as comprehensive as one you’d find at the Food and Drug Administration, it does contain some of the most popular.

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Used as a hair conditioner and thickener, increases sheen.

Vitamin F and C
Rejuvenates skin cells and slows hair loss. Prevents dullness and brittleness in the hair.

Hydrolysed Wheat Protein
A naturally derived wheat protein which strengthens and protects the hair by preventing moisture loss.

You can find the rest at

This information is taken from

Aloe Vera is an ancient herb used since more than 3000 years for curing different akin and related ailments. Among the many plant ingredients that are in use today, the Aloe Vera is one of the most versatile. It is an ancient botanical discovery. Although it is considered to be a member of the lily family, the Aloe Vera is very much like cactus in appearance. It is a native of the arid region, but is now being cultivated in many parts of the world. Like a cactus plant, it is fleshy and succulent and yields a thick gel-like juice.

This plant has a unique moisture retentive ability and powerful healing properties. The ancient Egyptians and Greeks used Aloe Vera extract to heal cuts and wounds on the skin. Ancient records also mention its value in suppressing pain. What appears to be an important feature is its effect on skin cells, as it helps the regeneration of new cells.

One of the main properties of Aloe Vera is its ability to seal off the loss of moisture from the skin. Thus, it is an ideal moisturiser and has been used with much success on dry, dehydrated and mature skin. Cleansing gels, containing Aloe Vera, have helped to restore health to acutely dehydrated skins and soothe sensitive conditions.

Another quality of Aloe Vera, is its action on the dead epithelial cells on the skin surface. Aloe extracts help to soften these dead cells, aiding their removal from the surface, leaving the skin smoother. The removal of dead cells improves the functions of the skin. It also has an astringent action and tightens the skin, thus protecting it from early ageing. It has also shown remarkable results on sun-damaged skin, with its moisturising, softening and healing actions

Some more info.

    • Aloe Vera is a good way to treat hair loss. Many people use various products that contain aloe Vera for maintaining thick and healthy hair.
    • One can apply aloe Vera gel on the whole scalp and hair so as to treat hair loss.
    • Actually, aloe Vera includes the enzyme which is beneficial in stimulating the new hair production.
    • It has properties of anti-inflammatory which are helpful in fighting against Androgenetic Alopecia.
    • Aloe Vera protects the hair and scalp from any type of hair problems. A number of people consider that there is no such type of item that can be very useful to prevent hair.


July 2020