The blacker the berry……………..

Posts Tagged ‘hair facts

Just a few tips that i found to keep hair healthy


    • Caring for your hair properly means creating a regular hair care routine to counteract dryness, which can contribute to breakage.
    • Once a month try a hot oil treatment, which will lubricate dry scalp conditions as well as moisturize brittle hair.
    • Massage the scalp regularly to encourage oil production.
    • What we traditionally have called nappy hair is just super curly hair, with tight, spring like coils. The coils can vary in size, texture, density and width. When they clump together, they can appear as ringlets. When they separate, as during combing, they frizz into the look we have all come to associate as being nappy
    • Remember that moisture is your friend. Water is the best moisturizer around.
    • Treat hair as a type of fiber, and handle it as such. You would not subject silk fabric to extreme heat or rough handling therefore you should be just as gentle with your hair.
    • Find a style, or set of styles that work with your natural texture and not against it. Kinky, curly, nappy, super curly hair is exceedingly beautiful and can be molded into many shapes and forms.
    • The use of oils and creams will make the hair feel soft and more flexible. Avoid oils and creams that contain mineral oil or petroleum. Skin and scalp experts feel that these chemicals can block and clog your scalp\’s natural ability to produce sebum. If you cannot totally avoid these chemicals, then try to choose products that have them several items away from the top of the ingredient list. Usually the further from first place an ingredient is, the less of it is in the product.
    • Some natural oils to try are olive oil, shea (shay) butter, jojoba and safflower. For more information about oils, see our OurHair Products section.
    • The best way to apply oils is by first wetting the hair, then applying the oil over it. The oil will help to trap and hold the moisture water adds. Creams usually contain water and are a great in between pomade for refreshing a style or on days you do not wash or wet your hair.
    • The type of oil or cream you use in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of year and your hair\’s exposure to the elements will vary your routine.
    • You will find that although natural hair can be washed daily, you may not want to. African textured and Ethnic hair tends to be dry and shampooing can worsen that condition due to the detergents. A better idea is to rinse your hair with plain water daily and then shampoo every 3rd to 7th days. Towel-blot, don\’t rub hair.
    • How often you rinse or shampoo will depend on your activities and your how your hair responds, but generally speaking, out hair reacts better to fewer exposures to detergent and more exposures to plain water.
    • If you prefer not to rinse your hair daily, at least mist it with a bottle of water to moisturize the hair fibers.
    • If you are working with truly African textured hair the most gentle handling can be accomplished while your hair is freshly conditioned and still wet with a WIDE toothed pick-not comb! You may even find that your hair combs easily while you are under the direct spray of your shower so that as the water flows through the hair, your pick will as well.
    • If you comb your hair while it is dry, mist it with a bit of water first or apply a little cream pomade to help the comb glide rather than catch. Go slowly and if you encounter a tangle or knot, loosen it with your fingers, then continue combing.
    • When you rinse or shampoo, keep the hair in a straight back position and only rub in one direction. This can help to prevent tangling and matting.
    • The use of brushes should be kept to a minimum and used to distribute oils or creams. Invest in a soft boar hairbrush. More information can also be found in the OurHair Care section.
    • Include a pH balanced shampoo specially formulated for your hair texture and type, a moisturizing conditioner and a shining gel or spray that adds luminous sheen while it conditions and protects your hair.
    • Try to avoid styling products that contain alcohol, as they can further dry your hair.
    • Try to give blow dryers and curling irons a break. Instead, consider a hairstyle that works with, not against your hair. Popular choices include braiding, cornrows or thread wraps. Don\’t, however, leave braids in place for more than 60 days. Give your hair and yourself a break from prolonged stress. Also, remember to continue regular shampooing and conditioning while wearing braided styles to keep your hair healthy and moisturized.
    • If you have color treated hair, condition weekly to add moisture and offset drying from chemicals.
    • Before you go to bed, wear something to protect your hair during sleep. Use a scarf or cap for straight hairstyles. Apply a small amount of moisturizer to the hair and then put on your cap.
    • To avoid rubbing and to stop hairline breakage, never sleep in any type of hair band that will rub the hairline. If you use a sleep cap, make sure it\’s satin and that it does not go above the ears. You can also resort of a satin pillowcase if you cannot keep a cap or scarf on.

from our hair .net



Proteins are found in virtually every living system. They are the enzymes that are the driving force for our biological processes. They are the main components found in hair, skin, tissue and bone, and they provide the active basis for our immune response. Proteins are macromolecules (or polymers) composed of amino acids linked together by covalent peptide bonds. There are 20 different common amino acids, and they can be found in many different combinations (known as sequences) in protein molecules. Both the types of amino acids present as well as the amino acid sequence determine the final properties of the protein, and as you can imagine the possibilities are endless. The recipe for each highly-specialized macromolecule is contained within the DNA for all living organisms.

Proteins have four levels of structure that aid them in performance of the function for which they are designed.

  • The primary structure is the amino acid sequence. This is the fundamental “building block” of the protein.
  • The secondary structure arises as the molecule grows in size and begins to twist or fold into an alpha-helix, beta sheet, or other less defined “turn” structures.
  • The tertiary structure is the structure that develops when side chains on a protein molecule are attracted to one another and assemble together to give the molecule a distinctive shape
  • The quaternary structure is the final structure composed of multiple assembled protein molecules that form a complex.

The primary structure is formed via covalent bonding, while the other three structures are due to hydrogen bonding and hydrophobic interactions. Proteins and the study of them is a lifetime pursuit, but hopefully this brief background will establish the idea that proteins are quite remarkable in their design and function.
Proteins in Hair Care Products

Proteins have been used in cosmetics applications probably since the development of vanity in the human race. The beneficial properties of these natural substances were readily recognized and utilized, as illustrated in the tales of Cleopatra and her infamous milk baths.

Proteins adsorb readily onto the surface of skin and hair, forming moisture-retentive films. The films act to smooth and flatten the hair cuticle, which makes the hair shiny and more-easily detangled. These films can also provide some protection from the environment and pollutants. Proteins are generally hygroscopic, meaning they attract water molecules from the air, so they also act as humectants. Proteins added to bleaching or perming solutions have been found to significantly reduce damage to the cuticle, and their addition to dyeing solutions has been found to improve dye uptake into the hair while minimizing damage as well.

Most proteins used in personal care products have been hydrolyzed, a chemical method of breaking down the large structure of the protein into a smaller fragment of the primary structure (either a polypeptide or in some cases the amino acids themselves). These smaller polypeptides are more water soluble and thus more easily mixed into a formulation and also more readily absorb into the cortex of the hair.

Hydrolyzed proteins penetrate the cuticle and absorb into the cortex of the hair. Research has shown that as much as 30-50% of the protein found in shampoos is absorbed and retained by the hair. The percentage is even higher in conditioning products due to the absence of cleansing surfactants. This protein absorption has been found to increase the strength and elasticity of hair fibers. Also, the more damaged the hair, the greater the extent of absorption and retention. The high level of protein-retention by the hair may lead to buildup problems for some people, which can manifest as dry or brittle hair. This effect is more pronounced when a person has healthy hair that has had little exposure to thermal or chemical treatments. The best way to minimize or avoid this problem is to use protein-containing products sparingly if you notice build-up problems.

Some amino acids found in many proteins are positively-charged, which causes them to be attracted to negative substrates such as hair and skin. Proteins and polypeptides can also be chemically modified (quaternized) much like other polymers to have a greater number of positive charges on them to make them more substantive to hair. A few examples of these types of molecules are soydimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein and cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein. These modified polypeptides are excellent conditioning agents and static reducers.

Some developments have been made by DuPont in devising genetic engineering techniques to produce a spider silk protein in its intact form (non-hydrolyzed) that is water soluble. They have made claims in their patents that this whole protein forms far-superior films on the hair and provides many excellent benefits. As technology in this area of biomaterials and genetic engineering develops further, we can hope to see more contributions of this sort to the field.

In summary, proteins are extraordinarily complex natural materials that can be of great benefit to the hair when applied in shampoos, chemical treatments, conditioners and styling products. On the exterior they provide moisture-retention, humectant properties, smoothing and detangling, and shine. As they penetrate the interior of the hair, they add strength and elasticity and act to “patch” weak spots. They are retained by the hair in high percentages, so some users may find it beneficial to rotate protein-containing products with ones without proteins. Many consumers have also found that using a very moisturizing conditioner paired with a protein product in their routine gives added benefit, probably due to the protein acting to seal in the extra moisture. As always, everyone’s hair is different as is their perception of what makes their hair feel and look nice, so it is always best to find what works best for you through experimentation

Some common proteins found in hair care products
Protein Major Amino Acids (generally many more amino acids are present)
Collagen Glycine, proline
Keratin Proline, lysine, cysteine (a sulfur-containing amino acid)
Silk Glycine and alanine
Soy Glutamic acid, aspartic acid
Rice Glutamic acid, aspartic acid, arginine
Milk Glutamic acid, proline (contains all eight of the “essential” amino acids)
Oat Glutamine, lysine
Wheat Arginine, Leucine, Methionine


taken from


July 2020