The blacker the berry……………..

Archive for the ‘Ingredients 101’ Category

Okay so I’ve been doing some researching and seeing what i can add to my hair regimen, first strenghten my hair and second to maintain moisture. In a previous post I had lamented how dry both my hair and my scalp felt.

So I have changed a few things in my regimen:

  1. I no longer deep condition over night, it was causing build-up on scalp which then led to my scalp being itchy and dry.
  2. I use okra has a deep conditioner, which i then follow up with a moisture rich deep conditioner.
  3. Im trying to minimize how much i manipulate my hair so for the last week and some, i’ve worn buns and puffs and just today a french braid type hair style.
  4. Im moisturing about every other night.

Umm thats it so far.

So I bet your wandering okra, why? It is apparantly a good protein treatment and can help strenghten and grow your hair. regal bal did a post on her blog that you can check out to see the process. So far its okay. The first time i did it, i left the okra in , not a good idea I ended up with dry flakes in some parts of my hair. Today is the second time ive tried it. My hair after washing, treating and deep conditioning felt really soft. So for now the okra is sticking around.

Second the crisco, this one is just an experiment, I had first heard about using this as a moisturizer on urbancurlz blog, its something that she does and loves. So I decided to try it today, I added my moisturizers and then sealed it with the crisco, after which i put my hair into like 18 bantu knots. I hope my hair is left soft and not greasy. Keeping my fingers crossed on this one. 🙂 I’ll let you guys know how it turns out.

So tomorrow is going to be an all day hair day, im going to deep condition, wash and style. Its gonna be loads of fun.

Anyways to the point, im going to be trying two homemade recipes to moisturize my hair because right now its feelin as dry as the sahara, no lie. So, Im going to use the coconut milk recipe with mashed bananas, honey, olive olil, avocado oil and safflower ( i read that its supposed to make your hair shiny and soft). I’ve used or rather attempted to use coconut milk before but the recipe was a dud, not because of the coconut but because my avocado wasn’t ripe enough so it was little bits instead of smooth and then I got the bright idea to add carrots to it, it just went downhill from there, I had to dump the whole thing out and start again, and by that time i didnt have a whole lot of coconut milk left. Hopefully this time the recipe works better, fingers crossed.

The next recipe that im going to use is aloe, honey and olive oil with some safflower oil of course. This is to help moisturize and provide hold when im do my bantu knot twists (im trying them for the first time, hope it turns out good). Im going to be using this in conjuction with conditioner and a body butter, yeah i said body butter, shea butter was way to steep for me so I bought a butter that i think can do dual purpose, it doesn’t feel bad so far ( I did a sample test in my hair today).

I just hope my hair doesn’t feel like a brillo pad after this, thats my main goal, if its a bit soft i will be thrilled. Oh, and im going to seal or add some of my “herbal oil” the conditoner hides the spice cabinet smell. 🙂

Ethyl macadamiate is a plant-derived (from macademia oil) alternative to synthetic silicones. It is especially non-greasy and non-sticky with excellent spreadability. It helps make the skin feel soft and healthy.

Ethyl Macadamiate is a clear, colorless liquid at room temperature, with a typical fatty ester odor. Ethyl Macadamiate’s melting (congealing) point is 10°C. and its specific gravity is 0.88. Ethyl Macadamiate spreads very aggressively, and has a light, nongreasy dry skinfeel similar to that of some silicone derivatives, however, Ethyl Macadamiate is non-volatile.

Ethyl Macadamiate is used in cosmetics, especially in skincare, haircare and suncare formulation. The dry skinfeel and high spread make Ethyl Macadamiate well suited for increasing sunscreen coverage. Ethyl Macadamiate is a promising alternative to cyclomethicone and dimethicone as a skinfeel modifier where a botanical, nonvolatile and/or lipid-soluble substance is preferred

sources: and picture from

Description: Naturally derived, cationic self-emulsifying wax & quaternary conditioner consisting of cetearyl alcohol & behentrimonium methosulfate (derived from rapeseed oil of the natural plant Colza). Off-white pastilles, faint odor. Insoluble, but dispersible in water & oil. pH Value: 5 – 7 (2% solution). CAS# 67762-27-0 / 8005-44-5, 81646-13-1.


INCI Name: Behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol.

Properties: Skin care products: gives superior cationic emulsions with soft powdery feel, thickening & stabilizing effects, able to emulsify silicone up to 50%. Hair care products: excellent conditioning & detangling effects, superior wet combing, very gentle for leave-on products.

Use: Warm to melt before use, typical concentration 1-10%.

Applications: Moisturizing creams & lotions, silicone emulsions, antiperspirants & deodorants, various hair care products (conditioners, detanglers, hair dyes, hair relaxers, leave-on treatments, ethnic hair care products).


info taken from

check out for some conditioners that contain this product, BMS is cousin to BC ( Behentrimonium cholride)

I got this one from

Description: Cationic quaternary ammonium compound (docosyltrimethylammonium chlorid) made from colza oil (canolla oil) with potent conditiong effect. White to off-white flakes, alcohol-like odor. Soluble in hot water or oil (85oC / 185F), pH: 6 – 8 (2% solution). Activity: 79-81% active substances. CAS# 17301-53-0.

INCI Name: Behentrimonium choride, ethyl alcohol.

Properties: Potent conditioner with antistatic & detangling properties, able to restore & rebuild damaged hair (due to colza oil it does not coat but penetrates & substantiates the hair shaft), softening effect, antimicrobial properties.

Use: Use level 0.5 – 3 %, add pellets to warm water or oil (85oC) to melt, avoid overheating.

Applications: Hair conditioners, hair shampoos, hair rinses. If you google this product you can see the different companies that use this in there conditioners.

 If you purchase this product to use in your own mixes Please excersie caution when using this product as improper use can be detrimental to your health.

 info from


Soy Protein is a cosmetic grade, enzymatically hydrolyzed soy protein. Low odor and light color characterize this superior soy hydrolyzate. This high quality vegetable sourced protein provides moisture retentive, protective, and sealing films. It adds shine, body, and manageability to hair care products.

Soy Protein increases the ability of the hair and skin to bind moisture and specifically improves the tensile strength
of hair. It mitigates damage due to bleaching, perming, and hot combing. Soy Protein is substantive to hair and
skin. It helps to minimize roughness and chapping of skin caused by dry climates


::What are the benefits of Hydrolyzed Soy Protein?::

HAIR CARE– Enhances hair manageability, improves the body and texture of hair, improves feel and dry comb properties, contains cystine for hair strenthening and nourishment.

SKIN CARE– Soy is an awesome source of Isoflavones. The role of isoflavones is widely appreciated and is currently the subject of intense research. Isoflavones appear to protect the skin against hormone-related aging, such as in menopause. And isoflavones can have estrogenic activity, for instance if during menopause the body’s natural level of estrogen drops, isoflavones can compensate by binding to the same receptor sites. As we age, our hormone levels drop and our skin, the biggest organ, shows the results. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein helps bring back a youthful radiance in skin care



Info from

If you harbour dreams of being a mixtress like me then it would help if you knew what each of the ingredients is best used for, how it is helpful and how it reacts with other ingredients.

First up Avocado Butter

Our pure avocado butter is expeller crushed from the fresh flesh of the avocado fruit and then hydrogenated to yield a soft greenish butter. This is a much softer butter than any of the other butters we carry. Avocado butter is a very rich, moisturizing treatment for the hair and skin, and it has some natural sunscreen properties. Use it in soap and skin care formulations at 5 – 20%. Use smaller amounts of avocado butter in lotion bars. This butter can be a little heavy and greasy, but it is definitely worth it in small amounts

 Benefits of Avocado Butter

  • Moisturizes
  • Good penetrating properties
  • Excellent spreadability
  • Some natural sunscreen ability
  • Low comedogenicity

information from


April 2020